Craft

Menswear brands are the star at Pitti Uomo. But what really makes a brand shine brightly?

Digital connoisseurs and the challenge for menswear brands

“Italians work a lot on product and in France, you work a lot on the marketing of product. If you integrate the two, I think you can have a great story and that’s what I was doing [at menswear brand Berluti] and what I’m doing [at Zegna].” – Alessandro Sartori, Artistic Director, Zegna (WWD, April […]

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Best cities for bespoke tailoring: do sartorial rankings matter?

Confession: I am not actually a believer in “best of” lists and rankings whether they are applied to universities, wines or films. Nor do I put much stock in them mainly because they inhibit any hint of nuance and promote confirmation bias. Yet these very drawbacks also explain I why have decided to concoct my

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Sicilian tailoring house Sartoria Italiano

This past April I spent a wonderful Sunday afternoon with Claudio Italiano, his father Luigi, their new apprentice Gloria and friend Christina who helped translate our conversation. Becoming a tailor is difficult enough. But I would argue that becoming a Sicilian tailor (let alone a Sicilian tailoring house) is unusually demanding. After a few hours

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Sartoria Crimi – the rare Sicilian tailoring house

Based on my experience, Sicilian tailors tend to convey much less of their impressive heritage than their sartorial cousins further north in Italy and on the continent who convey the idea of a grand tailoring house. As I wrote in SGST, Sicilian tailoring heritage and hospitality are often materially expressed in far humbler terms – “The

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