At some point in one’s life, wearing a leather jacket just makes sense. For some, it’s the need for speed that calls. For others, it is the look, weight, feel and smell of a leather jacket that has no substitute. Indeed, some men have made the leather jacket an indispensable part of pop culture, appealing […]
A time and place for leather jackets Read More »
A very nice Budapester featuring a goiser (aka goyser or “goiserer”) welt by shoemaker Koronya. Additional links – Styleforum thread on Budapester model above – Styleforum thread on split v. reverse welt
Central European style: A brown suede Budapester Read More »
I came across this September 2010 Irish Times article on Sicilian tailors. The article makes an astonishing claim, which, if true, speaks to a wonderful sartorial state of affairs in existence half a century ago. In postwar Italy, the author of the article estimates there were approximately 100,000 tailors serving about 85 per cent of
Sicilian tailors: What’s next after the Neapolitans? Read More »
The occasion: US President Calvin Coolidge congratulating Washington Senator ace pitcher Walter Johnson on winning the 1924 American League baseball championship. At a distance, the first thing to notice is the sea of straw boater hats. If you click on the image for the hi-res version (and click again to magnify), you’ll notice a few
The well-dressed past: A sporting event in 1925 Read More »
Despite the efforts of provocative designers such as Thom Browne and Kris van Assche, the contemporary Western male is largely conservative regarding color, pattern and cut. We are perhaps the logical culmination of the Great Austerity in men’s clothing that began with Beau Brummell’s simplification of gentlemanly dress in the early 1800s. Of course there
Style as evolution v. static equilibrium Read More »
A couple of years ago I wrote about my visit to high end men’s shoe store Leather Soul in Hawaii. The owner has since expanded to Beverly Hills in Los Angeles and I stopped by the new expansion store earlier this month during the Alden and Cleverly trunk shows. Nate Humble of Alden was on
Leather Soul, Beverly Hills: Alden and Cleverley trunk shows Read More »
I recently had a great chat with newly minted hatmaker Stephen Temkin who launched his initial collection of hats under the Leon Drexler brand. Stephen is based in Toronto and launched his RTW and bespoke hat business earlier this year. If you’re serious about hats, be sure to check his guide to measuring your head
Profile of a modern hatmaker: Stephen Temkin Read More »
Here’s a short video documentary of English tailor Jasper Littman at work with a new client on a semi-bespoke or made-to-measure suit. I’m not a customer of Littman but I enjoyed watching the video for some of the commentary and footage of tailors and workshops. Journalist Mads Qvortup and Littman chat about the proprieties of
English tailoring: Jasper Littman Read More »
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