Juhn @ sleevehead

Windowpanes and double-breasted suits

Check out this well-edited business casual look by DocHolliday on Styleforum. He wears a bold windowpane sports jacket but “mutes” the boldness with a small-patterned tie and solid white shirt.  Definitely one of the best “what are you wearing” photos I’ve seen recently on Styleforum or anywhere else. Are you curious about double-breasted suits but

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Well-Dressed Strangers: Handsome Meets Beautiful

Ever spot a well-dressed person walking down the street and wonder a bit about him or her?  I recently stumbled across this YouTube clip of Beautiful Stranger, a fashion-oriented street interview series in New York: This triggered the following flight of fancy. Perhaps an enterprising, media-savvy reader of Sleevehead could do the same but dedicated

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Digging deeply into pockets: A thought experiment

In a recent Styleforum thread, I was struck by this statement regarding the chest pocket on jackets: “A human chest is curved, a suit has curvature in the chest, so anything applied to the chest [e.g. a chest pocket] needs to be curved as well.” The idea is intriguing due to its literalist, quasi-Lamarckian overtones.

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Structured v. unstructured shoulders: Worlds apart?

Let’s talk about one of the most common tailoring polarities discussed on the discussion fora. And it rests on the shoulder, so to speak. It is often asserted that structured shoulders (e.g. the classic Savile Row cut) look and feel substantially different than unstructured or soft shoulders (Anderson & Sheppard or the Neapolitans). That would

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Freddy Vandecasteele: A custom Western-style shirt

Experimentation. I think it’s a good antidote to the excessive seriousness that occasionally undermines the bespoke journey. To that end, I recently picked up a Western-style shirt from Freddy Vandecasteele. It’s similar to the one Freddy is wearing but lacks the two-tone treatment, features a modified scalloping of the front yoke, has different pockets and

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Vienna: Knize, Niedersuesz and Netousek

After Paris and London, my next destination was Vienna. Judging from the discussion threads posted in English language forums, you might think Italy (specifically, Naples) has a near monopoly on the soft shoulder. Think again. The soft or “runde” shoulder is alive and well in Mitteleuropa or Central and Eastern Europe. Call it the Viennese

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