Recently, a member of AskAndy asked the $64,000 question – since when and why have modern men been dressing so poorly? The consensus seems to be sometime in the mid-1960s, a period of political, cultural and social rebellion. As to the question of why, however, the collective answer is less certain. My own thinking suggests […]
The rise and fall of sartorial standards – why? Read More »
This recent StyleForum thread on Chicago v. NY led to a rather wide-ranging discussion on the self-satisfaction of San Franciscans and New Yorkers, the lack of “style” among Chicagoans and other comparisons. Chicago My post on the superlatives of Chicago apparently piqued the ire of others. It is remarkable how individuals are not truly individuals
Chicago – superlatives of the Windy City Read More »
There are two gaps actually: generational and geographical. The first gap is generational because the tailoring tradition has remained largely with the older generation as jobs and skills have migrated to “softer” more cognitive skills. Tailors are getting older and their replacements are virtually nowhere to be found. The second issue – the importing of
The human resources gap in men’s tailoring Read More »
A recent and informative StyleForum discussion thread takes a look at the in’s and out’s menswear shopping in Florence – primarily from the consumer’s point of view of course. I’ve never been to Florence (just to Milan). Florence, Rome and Milan, are considered the premier destinations for men’s clothing in Italy. For my next visit
The Italian influence and shopping in Florence Read More »
A few weeks ago I posted some advice to Darren Beaman, an independent tailor on Savile Row, on the StyleForum website. Mr. Beaman was seeking advice and help on improving his website. Here’s my advice in full form: I’ve done some internet/technology consulting and I find a common myth about websites is that you just
Web marketing 101 for bespoke tailors Read More »
Prior to my visit to his shop today, I only had a handful of references to Jack Taylor’s. Flusser’s entry in Style and the Man describes Taylor’s cut as “British-inspired, with narrow shoulders, shaped torso, slant pockets, and deep vents”. A recent article on Mr. Taylor in the Los Angeles Times Magazine. It was a
Bespoke in Beverly Hills: A visit to Jack Taylor’s Read More »
Using Flusser’s Style and the Man and the Robb Report’s list of top tailors as my guide, I discovered that there are at least three bespoke tailors of note in the Los Angeles area. They are (or were): Anthony Gasbarri Jack Taylor Giacomo Trabalza Unfortunately Mr. Gasbarri passed away in 2003. According to a Variety
Bespoke tailors in Los Angeles Read More »
This afternoon I went to an Oxxford trunk show at Carroll & Co in Beverly Hills. I met and chatted with Mike Cohen, the raffish young president of Oxxford Clothes which is based in the west side of Chicago – “city of the big shoulders“. In operation since 1916, Oxxford makes what many consider to
Oxxford trunk show at Carroll & Co Read More »
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