This past summer I visited Santa Monica bespoke tailor Enzo Caruso and laid out my idea for my next commission – a relaxed double-breasted (DB) suit inspired by the drape cut. I have certainly appreciated the DB in a Platonic way (i.e. the idea and form of the DB). However, I have never really taken […]
Enzo Caruso: An experiment in informality Read More »
I was in Barcelona recently and visited a couple of shops that offer RTW and MTM/bespoke: Bel y Cia and Santa Eulalia. Bel y Cia At Bel, I met with Sebastian, the salesman I met three years ago during my last visit, for another order of their classic Teba jacket. As I described in earlier
Barcelona revisited: Bel y Cia & Santa Eulalia Read More »
A public service announcement for my Asian readers. The friends of Neapolitan trousermaker Ambrosi have let slip that he will be visiting Asia this month. In particular, Seoul, Korea from October 18 to 20 and Singapore on October 22.
Ambrosi in Asia: Neapolitan trousers travel East Read More »
As you may have heard, the classic Savile Row tailoring house Kilgour was recently acquired by new owners and new management often brings changes. One of them is a deliberate effort to go even more upscale in their bespoke and RTW offering. This has meant a couple of things. One is that Kilgour’s off-the-rack or
Kilgour update: Luxe Savile Row and rethinking cottons Read More »
Below is Hungarian shoemaker Koronya’s reinterpretation of the sturdy Central European shoe style known as the Budapester. Additional links – Styleforum thread on the new Budapester
Mitteleuropa style: The new Budapester Read More »
The New York Times recently featured an article on the original Filene’s Basement store built in 1909, which showed a photograph taken of two men’s suit racks. The date is uncertain but my best guess is that it dates back at least as early as the 1940s or 1950s. Today it appears most mainstream American
One size does not fit all: Even and odd size ranges in RTW Read More »
I recently received several clothes hangers from Kirby Allison of The Hanger Project and have had the opportunity to test drive them. My testing regimen was simple. I set my bespoke suits, jackets and trousers on their new hangers and observed how they fared. With jackets, the most obvious difference is that the collar and
Review: The Hanger Project clothes hangers Read More »
Take a second or two and look at the suits. Where do you think this photo was taken? Perhaps you’re thinking downtown Los Angeles in the Fashion District or maybe the Garment District in NYC. User design expert Jan Chipchase took this photo of a makeshift suit display in a local marketplace in the city
The blue and the gray: The suit as universal currency Read More »
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