There is I think a common fallacy about clothing. Most men (and women for that matter) dress to please themselves or to please other people. This quote from Epictetus in Richard Torregrassa’s new style book, Cary Grant: A Celebration of Style, illustrates a rather more compelling take on clothing: Know first who you are, and […]
The subjective fallacy of clothing Read More »
I’ve recently wondered about the rather haphazard legacy of bespoke garments (suits, shoes and the like) and the unfortunate manner of their disposal, often in auctions to the highest bidder. The garments live on in the private collections of aficionados but their power to inspire and enlighten remain hidden to the public eye. Then a
A modest proposal: the archives of men’s tailoring Read More »
Cottage industries have an economic stickiness in the factors of production, particularly in the supply of trained artisans. As a result, they tend to form organically and are difficult replicate (e.g. Savile Row for bespoke suits, Northampton for welted shoes). However, there is an interesting case study of shoemaking excellence in one area (Northampton, England)
Artisanal excellence: UK and Japan Read More »
I thought this AskAndy thread on dandies was rather funny. I have been guilty of the following: …you have to argue with store alterations about an 1/8th of an inch on the jacket sleeve. …you add in extra time to your business trips in order to do some shopping at fine merchants, even if it
Self-diagnostic for dandies Read More »
Recently I started an AskAndy thread on the likelihood of getting things right at the very first fitting of a bespoke suit or jacket. Apparently near perfection does happen occasionally. But the more important discovery is that there are at least two different philosophies on the fitting process. The Savile Row method generally hews to
The philosophy of the ‘first fitting’ and Kilgour’s approach Read More »
This recent AskAndy thread discusses the latest activities by Savile Row to maintain and extend equity and reputation in the Savile Row brand. It’s an idea which is sorely needed and rather belated in my opinion. But better late than never. I had in fact intended to write an entry on ways to revivify the
Savile Row Bespoke Code Read More »
From the author of the recently published book The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men’s Style, here are two interviews he gave recently on the book and general thoughts on men’s clothing: Interview part 1 Interview part 2
Interviews with the author of The Suit Read More »
After having a placeholder for the longest time, Knize & Comp have finally rolled out a website. And it’s a handsomely designed one at that. It’s quite a delight to see photos of the Loos designed interiors and exterior. There are also stunning examples of their house styles in lounge/business suit (Anzug), blazer (Blazer), morning
Finally! Knize’s new website Read More »
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