The decline of ties and neckwear

Citing a recent Gallup Poll, the Wall Street Journal reported that just 6 percent of men wear neckties to work everyday, a decline from 10 percent in 2002.  Responding to this steadily declining demand, American suppliers and manufacturers of neckwear announced the disbanding of the 60-year old Men’s Dress Furnishings Association this summer. I find […]

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Apparel Arts/GQ magazine covers (1957 to 2000s)

The role of print media, especially prior to television, was highly influential in setting and calibrating standards and tastes in men’s clothing.  Much the way that some newspapers used to be considered newspapers of record, certain magazines played that role for men’s clothing.  Apparel Arts used to be such a magazine of record and standard

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Windowpanes and double-breasted suits

Check out this well-edited business casual look by DocHolliday on Styleforum. He wears a bold windowpane sports jacket but “mutes” the boldness with a small-patterned tie and solid white shirt.  Definitely one of the best “what are you wearing” photos I’ve seen recently on Styleforum or anywhere else. Are you curious about double-breasted suits but

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Well-Dressed Strangers: Handsome Meets Beautiful

Ever spot a well-dressed person walking down the street and wonder a bit about him or her?  I recently stumbled across this YouTube clip of Beautiful Stranger, a fashion-oriented street interview series in New York: This triggered the following flight of fancy. Perhaps an enterprising, media-savvy reader of Sleevehead could do the same but dedicated

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Digging deeply into pockets: A thought experiment

In a recent Styleforum thread, I was struck by this statement regarding the chest pocket on jackets: “A human chest is curved, a suit has curvature in the chest, so anything applied to the chest [e.g. a chest pocket] needs to be curved as well.” The idea is intriguing due to its literalist, quasi-Lamarckian overtones.

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Structured v. unstructured shoulders: Worlds apart?

Let’s talk about one of the most common tailoring polarities discussed on the discussion fora. And it rests on the shoulder, so to speak. It is often asserted that structured shoulders (e.g. the classic Savile Row cut) look and feel substantially different than unstructured or soft shoulders (Anderson & Sheppard or the Neapolitans). That would

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