Kilgour is a longtime Savile Row tailor that happens to offer an alternative product to the traditional bespoke model (cut, sewn and finished in the UK). Actually they offer two alternatives – ready to wear and “entry-level bespoke”. An interesting tidbit surfaced recently on the latter. It appears that the overseas half of Kilgour’s entry-level […]
A note on Kilgour’s entry level bespoke Read More »
For those unfamiliar with D’Avenza, this is an interesting profile of a major Italian RTW suitmaker which also does made-to-measure. The article is a bit dated (2001) but the details and commentary are alternately entertaining and informative.
D’Avenza: large-scale made-to-measure Read More »
After more than a year of research and steady progression up the menswear food chain (from RTW to MTM), I recently decided to take the plunge into bespoke. I looked at local tailors and would have preferred to start there but I wasn’t quite able to find the right cut or silhouette that I felt
Kilgour: A Savile Row tailor’s visit to Los Angeles Read More »
For ready-to-wear, Morris & Sons is certainly worth a visit for discounted quality men’s clothing (Brioni, Luciano Barbera). Although some have reported less than satisfying visits to either the Chicago or New York location of Paul Stuart, I think it’s still worth a visit. The Chicago location is a beautiful men’s store, albeit apparently smaller
Menswear in Chicago Read More »
A brief followup to my entry on the jacket length. I think the most common problem I see is excessive sleeve length of both the jacket sleeve and shirt sleeve, as well as excessively long trousers that “pool” at the ankles. The proper shirt sleeve length is relative to the jacket sleeve, showing about 1/4
Sleeve/trouser length: the most common problem Read More »
For some time, I’ve known that the length of off-the-rack or ready-to-wear sports and suit jackets was not quite right on me. The length looked off for some reason. The problem originates in the practice of stock or standard patterns and sizes that make ready-to-wear (RTW) possible. All RTW garments are cut off of standard
Jacket length: a fairly common problem Read More »
Today I decided to drop by Mr. Trabalza’s workshop on La Cienega just north of Melrose. It’s tucked away among other local businesses on this busy street in West Hollywood. A lady answered the door and walked to the back workroom and brought out the tailor. I didn’t have an appointment but wanted to see
Bespoke in West Hollywood: A visit to Giacomo Trabalza Read More »
Back in April 2005, I wrote a “marketing 101” entry for bespoke tailors and thought a recent discussion thread I created would be a useful sequel. A few weeks ago I posted a marketing related thread on AskAndy about the web as an underutilized marketing channel for tailors, shirtmakers and other bespoke artisans. I listed
Marketing 201 for tailors: Pourquoi le web site? Read More »
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